Our panel of skincare experts answer your customers burning anti-ageing questions
Dr Howard Murad, M.D. CEO and founder of Murad, Inc.
Howard Murad M.D. has changed the face of skincare as we know it. Devoting his life to making beautiful, healthy skin attainable for everyone. His internal and external philosophies and methods for an inclusive approach to overall skin and body health have helped hundreds of thousands of people.
Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh, Cosmetic surgeon
Acknowledged as one of the premier cosmetic doctors in Europe, Dr. Jean- Louis Sebagh is a master of the delicate art of cosmetic medicine, with a focus on the face and neck. Celebrities, models, socialites and VIPs comprise the high-profile clientele who visit his exclusive London and Paris offices for his breakthrough anti-ageing treatments.
Dr Perricone M.D. Board certified clinical and research dermatologist
Dr. Perricone M.D. is internationally recognised as a pre-eminent scientific expert in the fields of health, beauty and ageing. His well known mantra of creating beauty from the inside out inspired the creation of a line of targeted topicals, known as Perricone MD which work collaboratively with the supplements to achieve optimum results.
Nicky Hambleton Jones, The Makeover Queen
Nicky Hambleton-Jones has become a household name after appearing as a fashion and beauty advisor on Channel 4’s Ten Years Younger. She is at the forefront of both the fashion and beauty industries, helping women nationwide look and feel younger. In her pursuit of this, Nicky has truly become The Makeover Queen, pooling all of her expert knowledge into her new website www.themakeoverqueen.co.uk
Michael Van Clarke, Salon owner
‘Hair guru’, ‘stylist to the royals’, ‘creative genius’, ‘zen master’, Michael Van Clarke has been given many titles over the last 30 years and has built up an exceptional reputation as a hair stylist. His signature Diamond Dry Cut method is one of the biggest revolutions in hairdressing in the last 50 years, and his Michael Van Clarke LLP organisation is multi-award winning, holding titles including Best Salon, and a personal achievement for Michael himself, Best Director.
I’m in my 20’s and don’t want to overload my skin with rich anti-ageing ingredients, but do want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles from appearing, what can I do?
Dr Murad: “Wrinkles can begin to appear in someone’s early 20’s but that is usually due to a large amount of environmental damage in their childhood and teens. For any age, it is important to take care of your skin inside and out. That means eating well and taking dietary supplements that are targeted on improving your health all the way down to the cellular level. When your body has what it needs to create strong water-tight cells, all systems, including the skin, can function at an optimal level. Topically, make sure you use a good quality moisturiser daily, in the morning and the evening, to reinforce and restore resilience to the top layer of skin. If you are seeing wrinkles appear early on, you may be suffering from genetic ageing. If this is the case, look for products that contain glycolic acid to exfoliate and beta-carotene, a carotenoid and retinol precursor, to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles without irritation.”
I am in my 30’s and have started to get some fine lines around my eyes. Why are they appearing here and what can I do to make them disappear?
Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh: “Fine lines are a result of the ageing process and can be the result of a number of factors, such as certain regular facial expressions, smoking, poor hydration of the skin and most importantly , exposure to and as a result of sun damage. The areas most likely to be affected first are the face, hands, décolleté and forearms. Moisturisers and serums now contain ingredients such as anti-oxidants, hydrators, anti-ageing peptides, mineral sun screen and most recently the new biotech of the future: chrono biological ingredients and cell rejuvenators. These new cosmeceuticals, combined with a non-excessive lifestyle, can prevent, maintain and repair our skin if used regularly from an early age.”
What is the difference between fine lines and wrinkles? I’d like to know so I can try to stop my fine lines from deepening.
Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh: “From a physiological perspective, there is effectively no difference between fine lines and deep wrinkles, other than the fact that fine lines tend to be either the first signs of the skin’s ageing process and can be found around the eye area and mouth. Over time, as the skin ages, the fine lines and wrinkles will become more pronounced, especially if the skin has experienced excessive sun exposure or other potentially ageing factors. As with fine lines, deep wrinkles can be best avoided by starting an effective anti-ageing skincare regime at as early an age as possible and minimising the ageing risks presented by certain lifestyle and environmental choices. If a patient already has deep wrinkles, a good skincare regime is important, and they may require treatments such as Botox, fillers and certain laser or radio frequency procedures to help reduce and minimise the appearance of wrinkles.”
Why are my pores appearing bigger as I get older and what can I do about it?
Dr Perricone: “The size of your pores is proportional to the size of your oil glands, but there are two main contributors that cause large pores: genetics, and age. As people age, collagen begins to break down, and skin begins to lose elasticity as people get older. This causes pores to dilate because the skin tissue has become more relaxed with age. One contributor to aging skin is sun damage, which also causes pores to look bigger. Sun damage causes inflammation, and the thickening of the flared up skin cells causes tiny cells to collect around the edge of the pore, making the pore look bigger. Increasing collagen and elastin with the right skincare products can assist in reducing skin’s loss of elasticity. By addressing weakened tissue, your pore walls will become stronger. Also, preventing sun damage by wearing sunscreen and avoiding the sun at its peak hours will reduce inflammation. Choose a product with at least an SPF15. It may be fiction that you can shrink your pores permanently, but it’s a fact that you can help reduce their appearance. My Cold Plasma reduces the appearance of pores and will increase your skin’s firmness.”
How can I make my sun spots and pigmentation appear lighter, as they seem to be getting darker as I age?
Dr Murad: “Dark spots or uneven pigmentation occur due to an increased production of melanocytes and irregular melanin production. Typically pigmentation is caused by sun exposure but other contributors such as oral medication, illness, genetics and hormones can also play a role. It is important to make sure that you are using a broad spectrum sunscreen daily that blocks both UVA and UVB rays. Application and re-application is key in preventing new pigmentation. Also, use Vitamin C topically. Vitamin C has been long established as a specific agent for fading and lightening pigmentation. Finally, try using products that contain AHA’s to help to exfoliate dead and hyper-pigmented cells to stimulate the production of new cell growth. My hero pigmentation-busting products are Murad Daily Renewal Complex combined with Murad Active Radiance Serum.”
I feel like my skin is appearing dull and beginning to sag, is there anything I can do to stop this from happening?
Dr Perricone: “As you age, collagen production wanes, leaving skin less firm. Collagen is the most abundant protein found in the body. It forms the connective tissue that holds cells together, making them firm. This firmness, matched with the elasticity provided by elastin, keeps skin tight and wrinkle-free. I recommend increasing your skin’s collagen production by including raspberries in your everyday diet. Berries, especially raspberries, have tons of vitamin C, which helps produce collagen. I also recommend replenishing glutathione, the chief antioxidant responsible for keeping skin young and healthy. Naturally produced in skin cells, glutathione neutralises the free radicals that damage cells. Unfortunately, glutathione levels decrease with age, which shows in sagging, dull skin. Replenishing glutathione levels helps to make skin brighter and younger looking. This can be done through applying my Acyl-Glutathione daily.”
What can I do to complement an effective anti-ageing skincare routine?
Dr Perricone says: “I have five top tips for beautiful skin. Firstly, water. All of the biochemical changes in our bodies take place in the presence of water. To successfully get nutrients in and waste out, we need to be well hydrated. A dehydrated body promotes the development of ageing, inflammatory compounds; resulting in puffiness, dry skin and loss of radiance. If your goal is glowing skin, abundant energy, mental clarity and an overall sense of well-being, these foods are for you: salmon, sardines, anchovies, herring, mackerel and other cold water fish; free-range hormone and antibiotic free poultry; eggs from free-range chickens; grass-fed, pasture-raised beef or lamb; complex carbohydrates such as leafy greens, broccoli and oatmeal; healthy fats such as avocadoes, olives, extra virgin olive oil, nuts and seeds; and fresh fruits such as berries, apples and cantaloupe. Thirdly, cleanliness is the foundation of healthy, radiant skin, but don’t overdo it and strip skin of its natural pH balance. Choose cleaners rich in antioxidants such as vitamin C ester (VC) and Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA). These powerful nutrients thoroughly cleanse the skin of impurities without the dryness, redness or irritation caused by more aggressive cleansers. Fourthly, get enough sleep – at least seven hours. Adequate sleep will restore luminosity to the skin while improving tone and texture. It is also during the precious hours of sleep that our cells rejuvenate, repairing damage of the previous day. Finally, go green. Enjoy a potent anti-ageing ‘green’ cocktail of young barley grass. This pure and powerful powerhouse removes toxins and pollutants while restoring cellular function. Green foods also fight free radical activity, reduce inflammation and support healthy blood flow to all organ systems, including the skin. Finally, enjoy a cup of green tea after your meal. There is a compound in green tea called theanine that acts as a natural mood elevator and promotes feelings of well-being. Because green tea is rich in polyphenol antioxidants, it can help fight inflammation and age-accelerating free radicals, boost the body’s natural defenses, and exert anti-viral and anti-bacterial effects.”
My hair is going grey and feels much coarser and drier, is there anyway I can disguise it and change its texture?
Michael Van Clarke: “Hair turns grey as we age because the follicles at the base of the hair shaft cease to produce melanin. Each follicle contains a certain number of pigment cells. These pigment cells produce melanin, a chemical that gives the hair shaft its color, whether that be black, brown, blonde, red, or any shade in between. If colouring to disguise greys, it is essential to get the base hair colour and tone right, and the best way to do this is by keeping the colour quite natural – two or three shades lighter than your original hair colour. When your hair loses its pigment it also loses moisture, which is why a lot of people notice that their hair changes in texture. Our hair also loses elasticity as we age, the hair follicles shrink, and sebum and keratin production diminishes. These changes result in dull, dry hair. Low levels of estrogen during menopause can also cause hair to become dry. If you’re suffering from the problem of dull dry hair, you should use a regular moisturising treatment system. Get the best haircut you can afford which will make styling easier. Limit the use of heated appliances such as straightening irons, curling irons, and even hair dryers. Eating foods rich in vitamin A and E is also a great tip for shiny hair.”
How should I adapt my make up routine to help conceal the signs of ageing?
Nicky Hambleton-Jones: “To achieve an effortlessly youthful and dewy complexion, opt for light and fluid textures as opposed to matte powders. Anything too dry or heavy in coverage will make the skin look cakey, dehydrated and dull, and will also highlight fine lines. For a ‘barely-there’ fresh-faced complexion, mix one or two drops of Giorgio Armani Luminous Make Up Base into your daily moisturiser to smooth out fine lines. Bring this nude look into the evening by simply sweeping a touch of lavera Tinted Moisturising Cream onto the cheeks, chin and forehead. When it comes to enhancing or reviving dull complexions, it’s all about light reflection and clever trickery. As much as highlighters are excellent for creating a glow, be sure to avoid over-using anything too shimmery, as sparkly particles sit on top of dry skin, drawing attention to dry patches. Opt for a more subtle product that you can use all over the face, such as the Garnier BB Cream Miracle Skin Perfector, which not only highlights, but also hydrates to smooth dry skin, primes to create an even texture and gently conceals. Contouring is the easiest way to cheat a more sculpted and plump face, as well as making features look more bold and defined. To lift the face and heighten the cheekbones, always contour just under the cheekbones using a matte product that is one or two shades darker than your skin tone and an angled cheek brush. To make sagging jowls look more defined, apply contour colour just below the jaw line. M.A.C’s Sculpting Powder Pro Palette is sheer and will suit most skin tones. Never use a bronzer to sculpt, as the shimmer particles generally found in bronzers will detract from the sculpting effect and give a sun-kissed look, rather than shade. You can add bronzer after if you still want to look sun-kissed. Peach tones are fantastic for bringing an instant lift and radiance to dull complexions, as it counter-balances grey tones as well as sallow tones of yellow. Try By Terry’s Eclat de Teint in Halogen Apricot either alone or as a primer to enhance your complexion. Smokey grey or taupe shades are also an excellent choice for creating sultry evening eyes as they are softer than black but are still warm enough to keep the eyes looking bright. Golden bronze hues are also great to use as they are neutral and instantly warm your complexion. Just be sure to avoid flat, cold tones such as mint green, baby blue or lilac.”